Paddy's Blog from the Tour D'Afrique |
Cairo (Egypt) to Dongola (Sudan)
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Arriving in Cairo waiting for my bags and bicycle on the carousel was when the enormity of the Tour d'Afrique really hit me.
Cycling the length of Africa in four months, averaging 120kms a day! These thoughts quickly turn to my serious lack of preparation for the Tour. My anxiety worsens when I arrive at the hotel and catch up with the other riders.
Some chat eagerly about the marathons they have completed. Others talk about the Iron Mans they have done, and how many times they have traversed the USA.
This Irishman's contribution to the conversation was that I have cycled Howth Head three times, totalling 160kms in my life. Conversations stop and heads turn immediately.
And furthermore I completed the 160kms on a different bike, so the first time I will ride my new bike will be in Cairo! At this point a few jaws drop! While most other riders have a lot of cycling experience there are others of similar ability to me. We reassure each other that all will be well.....one day at a time! |
The opening ceremony took place at the Pyramids. While this was a unique experience in itself, the occasion and setting was wasted on me in many respects.
The stage for the day was set at 134kms, almost my total training, therefore I had more pressing business to attend to! I rode past the Sphinx with my head fixated on my bike computer, almost to my detriment....as I narrowly miss an ass and cart coming down the wrong side of the road. 2kms down just another 132kms to go!
The riding for the first six days was a huge shock to the system. Usual procedure is that when we make it to camp there is a meal prepared and we have a rider meeting, which outlines the route and distance for the following day! Proud of my efforts on the first day, I stare beleaguered at the white board. Day 2 168kms into headwinds!
So far I have managed to make it to camp every day, avoiding having to ride on the truck, and have cycled a total of 1,350kms.
If somebody had told me I would ride that distance two weeks ago, I would have laughed. However, without any background commitments and other priorities it is possible. Reality for me now is what distance I see on the white board and and making it to camp every night before sun down.
Leaving Cairo we headed towards the Red Sea to a town called Safarga. We then rode back over the mountains to follow the course of the Nile. Our proximity to the Nile is clearly evident as we see green pastures in the distance.
It is easy to understand why this agricultural land is some of the most over cultivated land in the world. Each farmer tends to his tiny section. They rise to wave as we pass. Children, excited by the multi coloured spectacle riding past them shout and chant. Some over boisterous individuals pick up stones and launch them in our direction! Luckily I avoid being pelted! Perhaps my ghost like appearance is enough to scare the kids away. Other riders are not so lucky!
Our first and much needed rest day is at Luxor. We use the opportunity to devour McDonalds and a trip to the Valley of the Kings.
One of the most valuable lessons I have learned, in my two week cycling career, is never to take a moment on the bike for granted. Things can change in an instant. As roads weave deeper and deeper into the desert, we hope that a change in direction does not direct us into a headwind, which can drop your speed by 50%.
The rugged desolation of the desert is incredible. Occasionally large container trucks will pass. The gust of wind after they pass has a pulling effect on the bike and can increase your speed momentarily. However it works both ways, therefore trucks approaching in the distance are a curse! |
We have now made it into Sudan. While we remain in desert terrain there are definite differences between here and Egypt (i.e. the temperature has risen significantly as we ride south).
In my opinion the biggest difference is the people. While the children in Egypt would line the streets, calls for 'money, money' would soon be heard. This has yet to happen in Sudan.
There is a genuine and endearing shyness and innocence about the children here. They never ask for money but their faces light up and they wave ecstatically when you acknowledge them.
I am finally beginning to feel comfortable on the bike. It's amazing how scientific a bike fit actually is. A height adjustment of millimetres to the seat post can make all the difference I the world.
For the first two weeks my knees have been aching. The seat adjustment has definitely relieved the pressure from the front of the knee. I am happy now that I am feeling the pain in the places I should be feeling the pain ( i.e.- thighs and ass!)
The next week will see us push for Khartoum the capital of Sudan. There is a lot of kms to spin through before then, but if I keep pushing, one day at a time, I confident I can get there. |
